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Brew Pubs Today: The Revival Of A Proud American Tradition
by: Keith Tomlinson
Remember the one-on-every corner dimly lit brew pub or tavern, beer-soaked carpeting and Joe
the Bartender, a long row of customers with their glasses of watery mass-produced beer, all staring at a
flickering television? Versions of these drinking establishments certainly still exist but their heyday as the
gathering place of choice is over. In fact this rather depressing era was only a hiatus in America’s rich brew
pub history.
In 1634 the Puritans licensed the first brew pub in New England with ale brewed on the
premises. Their idea was to steer drinkers away from the higher alcohol content of rum and whiskey. During this
period, they also passed legislation ensuring the quality of the product. This tradition of local beer brewing
paired with brewing excellence continued until the time of prohibition in the 1920’s. European immigrants were
the driving force behind this tradition, not only in transporting time-honored recipes and methods, but also in
flavoring the atmosphere of their taverns with the customs and décor of their home countries. The Dutch and the
English, then the Germans in the 19th century brought the family atmosphere of the old world to their adopted
land.
Post-prohibition, the traditions and style of immigrant brewing were disappearing. By the end
of the 1970’s only light lager was selling in any significant volume, driven by big business marketing campaigns.
At that point there were only 44 breweries in the United States. Yet a movement was on the way that would reverse
this trend.
In the 1970’s people were traveling in great numbers. It was the in thing to do and Europe was
the inexpensive destination. These travelers returned to America with a taste for real beer and an appreciation
of quaffing in agreeable, charming surroundings. With a sneer of disapproval at the state of watering holes in
their native land, many opened their own breweries and brew pubs in the European style. In 1982 U.S. legislation
finally allowed food to be served in breweries and the brew pub was ‘reborn’.
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